However! There were a small number of beautiful, shining stars. A handful of designers said yes! Yes, I will try to best my last collection! Yes, I will aim higher than mediocrity! Yes, it can happen! Ladies and gents, here they are....
Jenny Packham
Typically, I like to dress strong. Black, strong shapes, pants- those are my go-to pieces. They're my 'this is my dance space, this is your dance space' delineations.
But I am a girl. Sometimes I'm romantic and want to sit on a swing under a big oak tree, feel the warm summer breeze brush against my cheek. Or maybe I'm in an English garden, drinking tea and champagne, still on a swing..... clearly the swing is a necessity to the fantasy, wherever the location.
Those were my thoughts as I watched the Jenny Packham show. A drifting sigh into romantic contentment.
Yes the collection is safe, yes it's slightly predictable. And I. don't. care. I loved it. LOVED it.
I mean, come on. How Rocketeer-1940s-swinging in my English garden after my glamorous English summer garden party is this?
This. Is. Stunning.
Hello gorgeous gam.
a collective sigh......
Billy Reid
Again, not my normal aesthetic. Typically too preppy for me, though I have great admiration for his menswear. And most of the men who wear his menswear. It's nice Southern gentlemen without stupid alligators or palm trees embroidered on their shorts. WHY, why, do men wear these?
The collection continues BR's strength of beautiful tailoring while looking effortless and unaffected. He described this collection as "warmth with street toughness" and I think he does a brillant job of expressing just that.
Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta invited John Galliano to help him conceive of this season's collection- and what an amazing team they made. Typical flouncy, girly dresses of la Renta were definitely a thing of the past- replaced by a more mature, successful, impressive woman. I want to know her and be her. (and if I was her, I would also like her bank account)
a beautiful piece of art to close the show
Proenza Schouler
One of my favorite designers. This line is exquisite. Perfectly edited, perfectly styled, beautiful fabrics- check, check, check. Clothes to be worn by sexy, confident women. Ahem.
Naeem Khan
It would be hard to argue against anyone who says Naeem Khan won fashion week. This collection would definitely be in my top three. It wasn't perfect, definitely had moments trending toward chintzy instead of chic, but overall, beautiful work. I would bet someone muchero deniro that quite a few of these will be seen on the Oscar red carpet in a couple weeks.
mixing tailoring with Khan's signature beading work is a beautiful combination
i think that navy chiffon is calling to me
whimsical, sexy, bold, and a little 'Alien'-esque
Additionally, there were some collections with lovely pieces, peppered amongst the dross, that deserve recognition. Some collections get two shout outs. Because I'm nice like that.
For example, this piece by Victoria by Victoria Beckham (not to be confused with Victoria Beckham) is lovely:
very 'leaving prep school and heading to the stables' look. But I like it.
or these by Diesel Black Gold:
don't fuck with these ladies
or Narcisco Rodriguez (who almost earned an entire section, he gets three):
If only I could wear this color. It is a dream.
or Monique Lhuillier:
I pinned this on the BF's board I created against her will.
She'd look amazing in it.
or finally Yigal Azrouël
lovely layers for Fall
All beautiful pieces to admire in the midst of boring collections.
To balance out our NYFW exploration, we need to address the "what were you thinking's". Hopefully we don't see these at the Oscars.
First, Michael Kors, what were you thinking? And I loved your Spring collection, this makes me so sad.
What... why... who thought cammo would make a coveted suit and coat. Who? WHO?
And all I can say is what the fuck is this?
Is 'just got out of jail' the new trend?
And then, Marchesa. (shoulders sag, mouth sighs....) What happened to you this year? Spring was bad. The clothes were transported directly from India with zero interpretation from you, but Fall. Fall should be better. You can be so much better. This was a collection that had a direction but needed to desperately be edited.
is she a matador? are there bulls running somewhere?
i wonder if they thought they needed to use the entire bolt of fabric on one dress.
For a person size 0.
And finally, Rodarte. I think maybe I'm not cool enough to understand this collection. I get the inspiration- California, beach, hippies, but I don't get the translation. It's too cool for me. Obv.
Eh?
I will leave you with this gorgeous piece or art crafted by the über talented Bibhu Mohapatra. Don't let that tie-dye be your last memory of today's blog.
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| all photos courtesy of WWD |
London Fashion Week starts soon! I know you're as excited as I am.
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