Friday, March 22, 2013

Travel: Glasgow, Scotland

I had a very fortunate college experience: I left America and enrolled full-time at the University of Glasgow. Not a semester, not a year, but three years- terrifying, yet hands down the best decision I've ever made.


Glasgow is the largest city in Scotland. It has a population just under 600,000 in the city limits and well over 1 million including the surrounding towns. It stands on the Firth of Clyde, in the West Central Lowlands. An hour flight from London, 45 minute train from Edinburgh, it's easy to access and explore.


Glasgow has a long industrial history: shipbuilding, engineering, industrial machinery, bridge building, chemicals, explosives, coal and oil industries. It also developed as a major centre in textiles, garment-making, carpet manufacturing, leather processing, furniture-making, pottery, food, drink and cigarette making; printing and publishing. And! It was the first European city to have a population of over a million people. Pretty impressive.

Now most of the industry has gone and still it remains a vibrant city with a large business and finance community and also a strong artist community. It was recently voted a top 10 tourist city destination by Lonely Planet. Which obv means you have to go. Also, Brad Pitt's new movie, 'World War Z', shot all over Glasgow, pretending it was Philadelphia. Why? I have no idea, but most of the trailer is Glasgow.

If you want to plan a wee detour in your summer excursions, here are a few suggestions of what to do, where to stay and where to eat.

What to Do
Museums: I love myself some art galleries, so let's start there.

This museum is so much fun. It's located in the city center in a building built in 1778 as a private residence and later turned into the Royal Bank of Scotland, then the Royal Exchange. It opened as a Modern Art museum in 1996 and has featured artists such as David Hockney and Andy Warhol. 
Photo courtesy of The Independent

Entry is free, it's open everyday. You can have a peek at some of the exhibitions here. Go check it out!

Kelvingrove Art Museum
One of the most beautiful buildings in Glasgow. There's an urban myth that when the architect saw the completed building, he committed suicide from the highest tower because they built it backwards. Who knows if it's true??


Kelvingrove holds a massive collection of art from many periods of history, weapons and armor and a natural history collection. It's also free and the best bit is the beautiful walk you can take afterward through Kelvingrove Park, toward the University of Glasgow. Absolutely gorge.



Hunterian Museum: The Mackintosh House
Located on the University of Glasgow campus, the Hunterian has the largest collection of Charles Renee Mackintosh, Glasgow's most famous artist, in Scotland. 
Mackintosh furniture design
Signature Rose design
You can't go to Glasgow without paying homage to Mackintosh. So either go to the Hunterian, check out a tour of the beautiful (and designed by Mackintosh) Glasgow School of Art, or have afternoon tea at the Willow Tea Rooms.
Glasgow School of Art

MusicThere are some fantastic venues to see music around the city. Some I love-
I saw some wonderful Celtic music here.... and also the Indigo Girls, which was rad
(which is also a club and art installation space)

the best small venue. Bit of trivia for you: Oasis was signed here
If you find yourself in Scotland in January/Feb of 2014, make it a must to see some shows in the Celtic Connection festival. Celtic artist from around the UK and Ireland take over venues all over the city. It's magical.

Theater: A lot of people don't know this, but Glasgow has a massive theatre culture, including some really provoking experimental theatre. Take a night to see some Scottish plays like "Mary Queen of Scots Got Her Head Chopped Off" or, if you're lucky, an experimental piece by Anne Seagrave.

Check out the Tron Theatre, Tramway, Citizens Theatre, Theatre Royal and see a show!

Day Trip: Want to escape the city for a day? Go to Loch Lomond. You can drive (it's an easy drive, but please remember what side of the road to drive on), take a bus or take the train. Golf, water sports, hiking- all within 25 minutes of Glasgow. 


Where to Stay

1. citizenM - newer, modern hotel in the city center. Affordable, smaller rooms, but fun and tech-driven.

2. Carlton George - classic Glasgow hotel. Perfect location, you can walk anywhere in town  including both train stations. Rooftop restaurant with a gorgeous view of the city.

3. Hotel du Vin at One Devonshire Gardens - this small hotel is in the West End of Glasgow, close to the University and the gorgeous Botanical Gardens. It's posh and luxurious and where Sean Connery stays when he comes to visit. Imagine that, you could go down for tea and James Bond could be sitting next to you. I mean, priceless.

4. Blytheswood Square - in the city, but a few blocks removed from the busy streets. Very nice, newer hotel with delicious spa packages and scrumptious high tea.

Where to Eat
1. Ashton Lane - a cobble street alley in the West End. Have a wander and eat at AshokaUbiquitous Chip or any of the pubs you'll pass along the way.

2. Blackhouse/Grill on the Corner - fresh Scottish salmon and mussels paired with local organic beef. 'Simple, proper food' is their slogan. It really is so good, but it's also pricey, so plan ahead. (unless you're one of those people who has so much money you never look at the cheque. if that is the case, yes, you can take me to dinner)

3. The Butchershop Bar and Grill - West End, close to the Kelvingrove Museum. Neighborhood steakhouse and cocktail bar. Yum and casual. Good price points.

4. The Sisters Kelvingrove - modern Scottish food. Small plates, small prices, deliciousness.

5. Dhabba Glasgow - Glasgow loves its curries. Some of the best Indian I have ever had, has been in Glasgow. Dhabba is easily my favorite (Ashoka being my second favorite). It's Northern Indian food, apparently dhabba means roadside diner in North Africa. Just go. You'll thank me.

And Finally.... Where to Drink
Like most of the country, you will encounter a pub on every corner. Here are a few I enjoy, but the city is your pub oyster. Explore away.

1. The Universal - city center

2. Lansdowne Bar - west end, Great Western Road, also a restaurant.

3. Oran Mór - used to be a church and is now a bar. Sums it up pretty well. Also a live music venue. 

Honestly, there are so many, and they're all great. Check out the List for a more complete.... list.

So to sum up: edgy and cool city with awesome art, theatre and music; enticing places to stay; delicious food to eat. Need I say anymore? GO!!



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